Before I proceed to some of the general images, I recieve a LOT of questions asking what are the main pattern differences between the Schuylkill Arsenal and William Deering trousers. As far as the basic pattern is concerned there are just two primary differences - the shape of the rear yoke and also the watch pocket facings. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words so here are some photos showing the difference in the rear yokes and the second the difference in the watch pockets.


Now as for assembly techniques, below are images of a pair of William Deering foot pattern trousers made in our MUSEUM GRADE finish. These images demonstrate some of the detailed hand sewing found throughout my "museum grade" trousers. My Schuylkill Arsenal trousers (while a slightly different pattern of course) are virtually identical in terms of location and volume of hand sewing.

I am pleased to come to know that a number of more adventureous souls among us have used these MUSEUM GRADE trouser images to go by to upgrade their sutler row trousers with additional hand sewn details. If these images have served in that additional capacity then I am delighted.

I have been routinely asked about the visual differences between my "standard" grade trousers and my "museum" grade trousers (both in Deering and Schuylkill Arsenal pattern). My response to that is when viewed from the OUTSIDE there is very little difference to be seen (when comparing Deering's to Deering's and SA's to SA's of course). Most of the assembly differences are found on the INSIDE where all the hand sewing is. Also, while the pockets and fly are installed (sewn) a little differently between "museum" grade and "standard" grade this is only evident from the INSIDE. So for the most part the "museum" grade trousers and the "standard" grade trousers are almost identical when viewed from the OUTSIDE.

Once again, all samples shown below are the William Deering contract pattern. If you have any questions please call or e-mail me. Now on to the images!

PLEASE NOTE: I really cranked the light up on some of these photos to show all the small details. As a result a lot of the sky blue color looks "washed out".


Pockets, vent reinforcement, hand sewing

**fly facings & hand sewing

Deering stamp & hand sewing

CUFFS: outer & inner

Pocket facings & hand sewing

** While not visible in the image, there is extensive hand sewing around the front and back edges of the brown polished cotton fly facings (same as seen on the right side white cotton drill facing) .

Below are some clickable thumbnail images of my William Deering trousers in STANDARD GRADE. Assembly techniques on our Schuylkill Arsenal Standard Grade trousers are the very same. Compare the details to other similar grade trousers on the market for a "see-for-yourself" evaluation.

As in my written description on previous pages, please note the high rise cut; tapered, sloping waistband; medium and small paperbacked tin buttons; brown cotton left fly panel facings; split, rolled and hemmed cuffs; HAND tacking on side pockets, watch pocket and cuff splits. Also please note that our verticle side seam pattern pocket openings start approximately 1 & 1/2" down from the waistband and DO NOT start right at the waistband itself. This is the correct installation for this style of pocket.


Front, open

Rear split & tie-back cord

Sloping rise

Front view - fly

Side pocket & inner facing

Watch pocket & tacking

Cuff details

Hand sewn tie back holes

Hand sewn button holes


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