The trouser in stock on this page are made in an excellent quality 21 ounce wool blend (85% wool – 15% synthetic fiber) by WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS . If you are looking of museum grade trousers in 100% pure wool please CLICK HERE.

Our "Museum Grade" trousers are machine sewn on the main seams INCLUDING the Schuylkill Arsenal pattern but feature EXTENSIVE handsewing and handsewn details throughout the rest of the trousers. Of course any size not found in stock can easily be ordered. Additional details found in these trousers are . . .

2. The outer edges of the woolen waistbands and fly panels are rolled back (under)
    slightly as found in the majority of original examples examined

3. All cuffs feature the sideseam split or vent

4. Hand felled two-piece cuffs with wool facings PLUS cuff split reinforcement patches

5. NARROW pattern fly panels

6. Hand felled waistband and fly facings.   HISTORICAL NOTE: William Deering trousers (original
    examples) had the left side fly facings in brown polished cotton and the right side in cotton drill. In Schuylkill
    Arsenal trousers (original examples) all the fly facings were white cotton drill on both sides. However, I have
    seen two examples where the left side fly panels on SA trousers were polished cotton. While I have used
    polished cotton in my SA repros over the years, I have now elected to go with the all white cotton drill fly
    arrangement in my Schuylkill Arsenal fly panels to closer align with the majority of original SA relic examples.

7. Hand felled reinforcement patch on the rear waistband split

8. Right side watchpocket with a hand felled facing. (The DEERING WATCH POCKET is in the
    trouser body/waistband seam and internally faced with wool. Corners are handtacked as per originals. The
    SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL WATCH POCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam also BUT has the external     watchpocket facing (like a mini-vest pocket). Side edges on the SA watchpocket facing are handfelled) .

9. Sideseam pattern pockets with hand bar-tacking at the corners

10. Hand felled internal pocket facings

11. Hand felled cotton drill pocket/body seams

12. Hand topstitched pocket bags

13. Handsewn buttonholes in fly and waistband

14. Handsewn rear tie-back grommet holes with tie-back cord (not thin string)

15. Tin face paperbacked buttons - seven large on the waistband; five small in the fly.
     PLEASE NOTE: It is evident based on the majority of surviving relic Federal trousers that the FOUR button
      system for suspender attachment was the most common - one per side on the front and one per side on
      the back. We utilize SIX buttons for suspender attachment on our trousers solely out of convenience for
      our customers, the majority of which have suspenders set up for a six point (6 button) attachment. If you       would prefer your trousers to have the FOUR button suspender set up, simply let us know and we will be
      happy to accomodate.

16. Natural 100% cotton drill (NOT muslin!) is used for pocket bags, waistband facings
     and the right side fly facing

17. Correct period William Deering or Schuylkill Arsenal stamps on the waistband facing
     and/or pocket. ATTENTION PLEASE: We use a WATER BASED black ink for ALL our stampings. Please
      note that these stamps WILL FADE to a light gray after a while once they get wet (from sweat, etc).
      Some original black ink stamps were most likely India ink while others to the best of our research and
      observation were not. So for a variety of reasons, and for the time being, we have elected to use the
      water based inks as opposed to the India ink and modern chemical (permanent laundry) inks.

18. Sewn entirely in dark blue thread

19. We wish to point out that all the handfelling on our trousers is done using the period      style "vertical felling stitch" ... not your basic whipstitching!

20.MOUNTED TROUSERS: Our mounted pattern trousers follow specific INTERNAL
     assembly techniques concerning "hidden seams" (see photos). The installation method
     applied to these seams is distinct and found ONLY in mounted trousers. They are
     UNLIKE the same seams found in foot pattern trousers (which are fully exposed in the
     same area). Our method of hidden seams is historically correct. As is evident in my
     museum grade trousers, there is a TREMENDOUS amount of hand stitching and when
     considering the mounted pattern there are 600+ hand stitches on the reinforcement
     panels alone!

21. SPECIAL NOTE ON SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL TROUSERS: As an "additional cost" option (see
      our order form Form MTO for made-to-order "Museum Grade" trousers), we will apply HAND SEWN TOP
      STITCHING on the visible external areas such as the right side fly seam as well as pocket opening and at
      the cuffs.