TROUSERS

U.S. "Commercial Grade" Trousers

 

PLEASE NOTE:   We no longer maintain a ready-made stock of "Commercial Grade" trousers. However, they can be made to order for you via our order form link further below.

 

If you are new to these pages please read first the paragraph below "COMMERCIAL GRADE TROUSERS and SHARED COMMON FEATURES". This paragraph gives a detailed description of how the trousers are manufactured and what details both the William Deering and Schuylkill Arsenal trousers possess.

 

OUR COMMERCIAL GRADE TROUSERS and SHARED COMMON FEATURES

1.  Made in an excellent quality 21 ounce wool blend (85% wool – 15% synthetic fiber) by WOOLRICH WOOLEN
     MILLS
. This is the same fabric that we use in our wool blend "Museum Grade" trousers.

2.  High waisted cut with correct sloping back body and tapered waistband.

3.  The outer edges of the woolen waistbands and fly panels are rolled back (under) slightly as found in the
     majority of original examples examined.

4.  All cuffs feature the sideseam split or vent.

5.  NARROW pattern fly panels.

6.  Left side fly facings are brown polished cotton and the side is cotton drill as per
    original examples.

7.  Split rear waistband with tie-back cord and handsewn tie back grommet holes.

8.  Right side watchpocket. (The DEERING WATCH POCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam and
     internally faced with wool. Corners are handtacked as per originals. The SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL WATCH
     POCKET
is in the trouser body/waistband seam also BUT has the watchpocket facing (like a mini vest
     pocket). Side edges on the SA watchpocket facing are handfelled)
.

9.  Sideseam pattern pocket with pocklet openings starting about 1.5" BELOW the waistband seam line. The
     openings DO NOT extend right up to the waistband; that style seen on some repros today is incorrect.

10. Pockets feature hand sewn bar-tacking at the corners.

11. Handsewn bar-tacking on the cuff and waistband splits.

12. Handsewn buttonholes in fly and waistband.

13. Tin face paperbacked buttons - seven large on the waistband; five small in the fly.
     PLEASE NOTE: It is evident based on the majority of surviving relic Federal trousers that the FOUR button
     system for suspender attachment was the most common - one per side on the front and one per side on
     the back. We utilize SIX buttons for suspender attachment on our trousers solely out of convenience for
     our customers, the majority of which have suspenders set up for a six point (6 button) attachment. If you
     would prefer your trousers to have the FOUR button suspender set up, simply let us know and we will be
     happy to accomodate.

14. Natural 100% cotton drilling (NOT muslin!) is used for pocket inserts, waistband facings and the right side
     fly facing.

15. Sewn entirely in dark blue thread.

16. SPECIAL NOTE ON SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL TROUSERS: As an "additional cost" option (see our order form
     Form MTO for made-to-order "Commercial Grade" trousers), we will apply HAND SEWN TOP STITCHING on
     the visible external areas such as the right side fly seam as well as pocket opening and at the cuffs.

Please note that we do not use any period stamps in our commercial grade trousers; that is strictly a museum grade trouser feature.


We are asked very often - "Can the differences between the Commercial Grade trousers and the Museum Grade trousers be seen from the outside?"

To that very good question we reply - "If two gentlemen stood side by side and one was wearing our Commercial Grade trousers and the other our Museum Grade trousers, externally the two trousers are almost identical. Only upon an INTERNAL inspection of the trousers do the differences between the two become obvious.


 

>>>> Images of our foot pattern trousers can be found on PAGE 3. <<<<

 


To insure the best fit the waist measurements on any trousers listed on this page or anywhere else on this website are considered "WAIST MEASUREMENT AT NAVEL LEVEL" (that high up). This is not necessarily the same waist size found on your blue jean size tags. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WAIST SIZE AT NAVEL LEVEL to insure the trousers you order fit satisfactorily. Three minutes taken to check this measurement may save you THREE WEEKS (PLUS EXPENSES) in returning and obtaining "replacement" (read that as "your REAL waist size") trousers. When it comes to ordering correctly cut Civil War trousers do not guess at your waist size and be careful about jean tag sizing. If this measurement stuff gets confusing, no sweat ... call (315-343-1557) or e-mail me and we can sort it all out in short order. :-)

ALSO, waist sizes given are with the rear waistband split closed. If the waistband split is opened (untied) there is usually a gain of at least one inch more to the waist size given.

LASTLY but important to know: ALL stocked trousers (if a stock is currently available at this time) are complete EXCEPT for finished inseam length. When you order a pair please give us your inseam length and we will finish the trousers to that size using rolled, hemmed and splits at NO extra charge. Now if you do not see the size you are looking for just drop me a line and I can give you a delivery timetable.


 

OFFICERS, please CLICK HERE for information on officer's trousers.

 


Enlisted men, you can order a pair of "Commercial Grade" trousers by CLICKING HERE :-)

 


MUSEUM GRADE TROUSERS      TROUSER PHOTOS
CONSIGNMENT ITEMS#1      CONSIGNMENT ITEMS#2
FABRICS      TESTIMONIALS      LINKS

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