Before I proceed to some of the general images, I recieve a LOT off questions asking what are the main pattern differences between the Schuylkill Arsenal and William Deering trousers. As far as the basic pattern is concerned there are just two primary differences - the shape of the rear yoke and also the watch pocket facings. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words so here are some photos showing the difference in the rear yokes and the second the difference in the watchpockets.
Now, as for assembly techniques, below are images of a pair of William Deering foot pattern trousers made in our MUSEUM GRADE standard using Woolrich 85/15 (%) blend wool. These images demonstrate some of the detailed handsewing found throughout my "museum grade" trousers. My Schuylkill Arsenal trousers (while a slightly different pattern of course) are virtually identical in terms of location and volume of handsewing.
I am pleased to come to know that a number of more adventureous souls among us have used these MUSEUM GRADE trouser images to go by to upgrade their sutler row trousers with additional hand sewn details. If these images have served in that additional capacity, I am delighted.
I have been routinely asked about the visual differences between my "commercial grade" trousers and my "museum grade" trousers (both in Deering and Schuylkill Arsenal pattern). My response to that is when viewed from the OUTSIDE there is very little difference to be seen (when comparing Deering's to Deering's and S/A's to S/A's of course). Most of the assembly differences are found on the INSIDE where all the hand sewing is. Also, while the pockets and fly are installed a little differently this is only really evident from the INSIDE. So for the most part the "museum grade" trousers and the "commercial grade" trousers (in their respective patterns) are almost identical when viewed from the OUTSIDE.
Where my Woolrich 85/15 blend has been used in the production of both a pair of "museum grade" trousers and a pair of "commercial grade" trousers, generally stated the patterning is the same, the wool of course is the same, the buttons are the same, the waistband and pocket fabrics are the same ... even the tie-back cord is the same. With the hand-tacking on the watch pocket ends, side seam pocket corners and the bottom of the split rear waistband notch, from the OUTSIDE, the two versions of my trousers were very hard to tell apart!
Once again, all samples shown below are the William Deering contract pattern. If you have any questions please call or e-mail me. Now on to the images!
PLEASE NOTE: I really cranked the light up on some of these photos to show all the small details. As a result a lot of the sky blue color looks "washed out".
 Pockets, vent reinforcement & handsewing |
 **fly facings & handsewing |
 Deering stamp & hand sewing |
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Below are some clickable thumbnail images of my William Deering trousers in COMMERCIAL GRADE
standard. Compare the details to other similar grade trousers on the market for a "see-for-yourself" evaluation.
As in my written description on previous pages, please note the high rise cut;
tapered, sloping waistband; medium and small paperbacked tin buttons; brown
cotton left fly panel facings; split, rolled and hemmed cuffs; HAND tacking
on side pockets, watch pocket and cuff splits. Also please note that our
verticle side seam pattern pocket openings start approximately 1 & 1/2" down
from the waistband and DO NOT start right at the waistband itself. This is
the correct installation for this style of pocket.
 Front, open |
 Rear split & tie-back cord |
 Sloping rise |
 Front view - fly |
 Side pocket & inner facing |
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 Cuff details |
 Handsewn Tie-Back holes |
 Handsewn Buttonholes |
MUSEUM GRADE TROUSERS
COMMERCIAL GRADE TROUSERS
... or go back to ...
CONSIGNMENT ITEMS#1
CONSIGNMENT ITEMS#2
CONSIGNMENT ITEMS#3;
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