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Below are images of a pair of William Deering foot pattern trousers made in our
MUSEUM GRADE standard using Woolrich 85/15 (%) blend wool. These images demonstrate
some of the detailed handsewing found throughout our "museum grade" trousers. Our
Schuylkill Arsenal trousers (while a slightly different pattern of course) are virtually
identical in terms of location and volume of handsewing.
We are pleased to come to know that a number of more adventureous souls among
us have used these MUSEUM GRADE trouser images to go by to upgrade their sutler
row trousers with additional handsewn details. If these images have served in
that additional capacity, we are delighted.
I have been routinely asked about the visual differences between my "commercial
grade" trousers and my "museum grade" trousers (both in Deering and Schuylkill
Arsenal pattern). My response to that is when viewed from the OUTSIDE there is
very little difference to be seen (when comparing Deering to Deerings and S/A's
to S/A's of course). Most of the assembly differences are found on the INSIDE
where all the handsewing is. Also, while the pockets and fly are installed a
little differently this is only really evident from the INSIDE. So for the
most part the "museum grade" trousers and the "commercial grade" trousers
(in their respective patterns) are almost identical when viewed from
the OUTSIDE.
Where our Woolrich 85/15 blend has been used in the production of both a pair
of "museum grade" trousers and a pair of "commercial grade" trousers,
generally stated the patterning is the same, the wool of course is the same,
the buttons are the same, the waistband and pocket fabrics are the same ...
even the tie-back cord is the same. With the hand-tacking on the watch pocket
ends, sideseam pocket corners and the bottom of the split rear waistband
notch, from the OUTSIDE, the two versions of my trousers were very hard to
tell apart!
Once again, all samples shown below are the William Deering contract pattern.
If you have any questions please call or e-mail me. Now on to the images!
PLEASE NOTE: We really cranked the light up on some of these photos to show all the small details. As a result a lot of the sky blue color looks "washed out".
![]() Pockets, vent reinforcement & handsewing |
![]() **fly facings & handsewing |
![]() Deering stamp & hand sewing |
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Below are some clickable thumbnail images of our William Deering trousers in
COMMERCIAL GRADE manufacture. Show are samples with machine-sewn buttonholes
as well as hand sewn buttonholes. Compare our details to other trousers on
the market for a "see-for-yourself" evaluation.
As in our written description on previous pages, please note the high rise cut;
tapered, sloping waistband; medium and small paperbacked tin buttons; brown
cotton left fly panel facings; split, rolled and hemmed cuffs; HAND tacking
on side pockets, watch pocket and cuff splits. Also please note that our
verticle side seam pattern pocket openings start approximately 1 & 1/2" down
from the waistband and DO NOT start right at the waistband itself. This is
the correct installation for this style of pocket.
![]() Front, open |
![]() Rear split & tie-back cord |
![]() Sloping rise |
![]() Front view - fly |
![]() Side pocket & inner facing |
![]() Cuff details |
![]() Handsewn Tie-Back holes |
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![]() Handsewn Buttonholes |
MUSEUM GRADE TROUSERS
COMMERCIAL GRADE TROUSERS
... or go back to ...
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