Extensive hand sewing throughout! Hand felled waistband and fly facings. Two-piece cuffs: wool facings plus the cuff split reinforcement patches, all handfelled. Sideseam pattern pockets with handfelled facings plus hand bar-tacking at the openings. Cotton drill pocket inserts (pocket bags) are top stitched by hand. Right side watchpocket. DEERING WATCHPOCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam and internally faced with wool. Corners are handtacked for strength. The SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL WATCHPOCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam also BUT has the external watchpocket facing (like a mini-vest pocket). Side edges are handfelled. Handsewn buttonholes in fly and waistband plus handsewn rear tie-back grommet holes with tie-back cord. Left side fly facings are brown polished cotton and the right side is cotton drill as per original examples. Buttons are paperbacked tin - seven large on the waistband; five small in the fly. Sewn entirely in a dark blue thread. For those elements of the trousers made of or faced in cotton, we use a durable 100% pure cotton drill in a natural (unbleached) color. We also use copies of period manufacturers stamps on the inside of our trousers plus inspectors and/or size stamps as applicable.

This version of our museum grade trouser is identical in cut, pattern and finish to the 85/15 (%) museum grade trousers outlined above BUT made in a 100% pure wool fabric instead.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR MEASURING:

WAIST MEASUREMENT: When ordering any trousers made to your specific size, it is vitally important that your waist measurement be taken at NAVEL LEVEL. The best item to use for this is a flexable cloth or vinyl tape measure available at any fabric shop or "dollar store". Navel level height is where the waistband on correctly cut Civil War repro trousers is supposed to be and this is where we put it. We cannot insure a good fit if you do not measure your waist at this location. So in a tee-shirt, run the tape measure snugly around your waist at navel level (not above - not below ... just at navel level). Just keep it snug - don't pull it too tight nor keep it so loose that it's prone to slide around. Lastly don't argue with the math you get! LOL!

When it comes to your waist size we cannot go by   "used to be",   "generally is",  last time I purchased",   "kinda around",   or assumptions to that effect. :-D   If you want it to fit, please MEASURE to give us the correct information we need to do a good job for you. If you guess at your waist size, I guess it will fit. I can only work with the math YOU give me.

HIPS MEASUREMENT: With jeans on, using a cloth or flexable tape measure, measure completely around the fullest part of the hips/buttocks. We use this figure as a general reference measurement to insure we cut in enough seat room for comfortable stooping, squatting, skirmish line fence jumping, etc., etc. :-)

INSEAM MEASUREMENT: Many gentleman who are unfamiliar with tailoring matters have asked "How do you take an inseam measurement?". Some have found sources that state - from the crotch to the ankle - from the crotch to the heel of the shoe - and, from the crotch to the floor. Different tailors and different tailoring firms sometimes work by separate standards for inseam measurement and hence there is some confusion. However, we have had very good success setting our inseam lengths based on the length specified on blue jeans or dress slacks size tags. Of course there is always an occasion or two where this doesn't work out exactly; but 99% of the time it does. For those occasional times that it doesn't, this is why we offer free alterations for any completed pair of trousers we ship out. :-)

Thus, gentleman can submit the inseam info from their jeans or slacks size tag when ordering their CW trousers. However, if no size tag is found, we recommend the following. On any good fitting jeans OR good fitting repro Civil War trousers, take that flexable cloth or vinyl measuring tape and measure from the crotch seam (this is where the inner leg seams intersect with the trouser body seams a few inches below the fly), down the inside leg seam and end at the bottom edge of the leg or cuff. That will give you your inseam measurement. Thus either method (size tag or actual measurements off a good fitting pair of trousers) works very well for us here at STONY BROOK COMPANY.

A final quick word on size tags just to clear up an possible confusion. While we can use modern size tag info for LENGTH, we cannot use it for the waist measurement. For WAIST please use the waist-at-navel method specified above under WAIST MEASUREMENT.