FEDERAL OFFICER PATTERN TROUSERS
Below you will find technical information concerning both my COMMERCIAL GRADE as well as MUSEUM GRADE Federal officer's trousers. MOUNTED OFFICERS please note: I manufacture mounted pattern (reinforced seat) trousers in a MUSEUM GRADE standard only. I do not make them in the COMMERCIAL GRADE standard. I apologize for any inconvenience.
I recognize that some of these Federal officer's trousers will also work within various Confederate officer applications. Those specific applications however I will leave to my Confederate officer friends who know their pattern and option requirements best.
GRADE: I manufacture officer's trousers in both a MUSEUM GRADE standard as well as a COMMERCIAL GRADE standard. See below for grade specifics under the CONSTRUCTION heading. Some options however are limited to MUSEUM GRADE trousers only. This is reflected on each respective order form.
PRICE: Prices are not given on this page since they vary based on any "at cost" options you may select. Therefore, depending on which grade of trousers you are seeking (COMMERCIAL GRADE or MUSEUM GRADE), please refer to the order form for your specific grade of choice where exact costs (based on options you may select) can then be calculated.
PATTERNING My officer's trousers are patterned after a number of extant pairs of original officer's trousers which I had the priviledge to examine in hand. My officer's trousers are NOT rehashed enlisted man's trousers with a welt or cord sewn down the outer seam to make due. Sadly, I'm seeing a lot of that out there from some vendor's. Officer's trousers are cut along period civilian patterning lines which have specific details of their own and I reflect that in my reproductions.
CONSTRUCTION:
COMMERCIAL GRADE officer trousers are principally machine-sewn throughout.
However they do have hand sewn button
holes, hand felled cuffs and hand tacking at the pocket corners. I use only Woolrich 85/15 (%)
blend wool in all of my
commercial grade officer's trousers. Main pockets are the vertical side seam style and the right
side watch pocket is set in-
between the right side waistband and body seam line. Other options include choice of wool color, a
rear adjustment belt
option, and choice of internal cotton color (for pockets and waistband facings) All of the side
seam trim (save for the 1/8"
metallic gold braid option) is done in 1/8" wool welting. Buttons are black stipple faced tin for
both fly and waistband. All of
these options are outlined on the COMMERCIAL GRADE officer's trousers order form.
MUSEUM GRADE officer trousers are machine sewn on all main seams
but feature hand felled waistband and fly facings,
rolled and hand felled cuffs, hand sewn button hole and hand tacking on the pocket openings.
I use either the Woolrich 85/15
(%) blend wool -OR- as as an extra cost option, 100% wool in either sky blue or dark blue. I
also have a dark blue (dark blue
only) wool broadcloth available on occasion. This is a blend fabric and not 100% wool.
Please contact me as for current
availability and price. Officer's trousers feature vertical side seam main pockets with a right
side watch pocket set in-between
the right side waistband and body seam line OR, as an extra cost option, scallop-cut into the top
edge of the right side waist
band. Other options include choice of wool color, a rear adjustment belt option, choice of internal
cotton color (for pockets and
waist band facings), and an upper back panel lining option. All of the side seam trim (save for
the 1/8" metallic gold braid
option) is done in 1/8" wool welting. Buttons are black stipple faced tin for both fly and
waistband. All of these options
INCLUDING THE SEAT REINFORCEMENT PANELS FOR MOUNTED MEN are outlined on the MUSEUM GRADE
officer's
trousers order form.
"High Waist - Sloping back": I receive numerous questions about
my term "high waisted with a sloping back" when referring
to the cut of all my trousers both officer as well as enlisted men. Period trousers were cut with
a high waist line which put the
waistband right at navel level. Some examples I have seen were even higher. The back of the trousers
was always higher than
the front of the trousers and I have never seen an example of period trousers - officer, enlisted
or civilian - that were cut
straight across the waistline like today's modern trousers. As they say a picture is worth a thousand
words so here's a shot
showing my trousers with a high waist and sloping back.
ORDERING: For your convenience I have printable order forms available and links to these are supplied below. These order forms are fully self-contained rendering all the information I will need in manufacturing your trousers. However, please do not hesitate a moment to call (315-343-1557) or e-mail me if you have ANY questions on any detail or aspect of your order. I would be more than happy to answer all of your questions so as to allow you to make an accurate and informed purchase. :-) Also, fabric swatches are free upon request and are highly recommended in advance of making any purchase.
DELIVERY: As with all my trousers, I ship via U.S. Postal Service PRIORITY MAIL and all parcels go out with a DELIVERY CONFIRMATION number. Insurance is available at extra cost and if you wish to insure your parcel, please contact me in advance so I can let you know what the insurance fee will be. I e-mail each customer when their order ships so they will know it is on it's way. If for any reason an order is lost in the mail (this rarely happens though when Delivery Confirmation is used), I will supply the customer with all the shipping information I have so they can trace the parcel through their post office. Tracing a parcel has to be done from the receiver's end as they have to fill out the necessary form at their post office. I will assist in any way I can though.
FABRIC SWATCHES: Fabric swatches for trousers AND side seam trim are FREE upon request. Reviewing swatches showing your selected trouser and trim color are always highly recommended.
Please note that because of the various options available, I do NOT stock officer's trousers and each pair is manufactured ON ORDER and to your specifications.
Here are some photos showing both a sample of our COMMERCIAL GRADE officer's trousers and a pair of MUSEUM GRADE officer's trousers. I'll add some additional photos soon.
Example is a pair of Infantry officer sky blue's in COMMERCIAL grade. Various options are shown.
Example is a pair of Infantry officer DARK blue's in COMMERCIAL grade. Various options are shown.
Example is a pair of infantry officer dark blue's in MUSEUM grade. Various options are shown.
HOME PAGE OFFICER'S COMMERCIAL GRADE ORDER FORM OFFICER'S MUSEUM GRADE ORDER FORM