FEDERAL OFFICER FOOT PATTERN TROUSERS
Below you will find technical information concerning both my STANDARD GRADE as well as MUSEUM GRADE Federal officer's FOOT pattern trousers.
GRADE: I manufacture officer's trousers in both a MUSEUM GRADE standard as well as a STANDARD GRADE. See below for grade specifics under the CONSTRUCTION heading. Some options however are limited to MUSEUM GRADE trousers only. This is reflected on each respective order form.
PRICE: Prices are not given on this page since they vary based on any "at cost" options you may select. Therefore, depending on which grade of trousers you are seeking (STANDARD GRADE or MUSEUM GRADE) please refer to the order form for your specific grade of choice where exact costs (based on options you may select) can then be calculated.
PATTERNING My officer's trousers are patterned after a number of extant pairs of original officer's trousers which I had the priviledge to examine in hand. My officers trousers are NOT rehashed enlisted man's trousers with a welt or cord sewn down the outer seam to make due. Sadly, I'm seeing a lot of that out there from some other sources. Period officers trousers are cut along civilian patterning which have specific details of their own and I reflect that in my reproductions.
STANDARD GRADE officer trousers are principally machine-sewn throughout.
However they do have hand sewn button
holes, hand felled cuffs and hand tacking at the pocket corners. I use only Woolrich 100% wool in all of my standard
grade officer's trousers. Main pockets are the vertical side seam style and the right side watch pocket is set in-between
the right side waistband and body seam line. Other options include choice of wool color, a rear adjustment belt option, and
choice of internal cotton color (for pockets and waistband facings) All of the side seam trim (save for the 1/8" metallic gold
gold braid option) is done in 1/8" wool welting. Buttons are black stipple faced tin for both fly and waistband. All of these
these options are outlined on the STANDARD GRADE officer's trousers order form.
MUSEUM GRADE officer trousers are machine sewn on all main seams but feature hand felled
waistband and fly facings,
rolled hand felled cuffs, hand sewn button holes and hand tacking on the pocket openings. I use only Woolrich 100% wool
for my officers trousers. I can also obtain on special order a DARK blue (dark blue only) wool broadcloth at additional cost
This is a blend fabric and not 100% wool. Please contact me as for current availability and price. Officer's trousers feature
vertical side seam main pockets with a right side watch pocket set in-between the right side waistband and body seam line OR,
as an extra cost option, scallop-cut into the top edge of the right side waistband. Other options include choice of wool color, a
rear adjustment belt option, choice of internal cotton color (for pockets and waistband facings), and an upper back panel lining
option. All of the side seam trim (save for the 1/8" metallic gold braid option) is done in 1/8" wool welting. Buttons are black
stipple faced tin for both fly and waistband. All these options are outlined on the MUSEUM GRADE officer's trousers order form.
"High Waist - Sloping back":
I receive numerous questions about my term "high waisted with a sloping back" when referring
to the cut of all my trousers both officer as well as enlisted men. Period trousers were cut with a high waist line which put the
waistband right at navel level. Some examples I have seen were even higher. The back of the trousers was always higher than
the front of the trousers and I have never seen an example of period trousers - officer, enlisted or civilian - that were cut
straight across the waistline like today's modern trousers. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words so here's a shot
showing my trousers with a high waist and sloping back.
ORDERING: For your convenience I have printable order forms available and links to these are supplied below. These order forms are fully self-contained rendering all the information I will need in manufacturing your trousers. However, please do not hesitate a moment to call (315-343-1557) or e-mail me if you have ANY questions on any detail or aspect of your order. I would be more than happy to answer all of your questions so as to allow you to make an accurate and informed purchase. :-) Also, fabric swatches are free upon request and are highly recommended in advance of making any purchase.
DELIVERY: As with all my trousers, I ship via U.S. Postal Service PRIORITY MAIL and all parcels have a tracking number. Insurance is available at extra cost and if you wish to insure your parcel please contact me in advance so I can let you know what the insurance fee will be. I e-mail each customer when their order ships so they will know it is on it's way. If for any reason an order is lost in the mail (this rarely happens though since each Priority Mail package has a tracking number) I will supply the customer with all the shipping information I have so they can trace the parcel through the postal system.
FABRIC SWATCHES: Fabric swatches for trousers AND side seam trim are FREE upon request. Reviewing swatches showing your selected trouser and trim color are always highly recommended.
SIDE SEAM WELTING: With specific reference to infantry officers and DARK blue trousers, we offer two shade of sky blue welting ("piping"). One is a LIGHT shade of sky blue and the second is what we refer to as "DARK" sky blue. This is like a deep Saxony or "twilight" blue. We offer both because of customer requests. If you would like to see a sample of these two sky blues just e-mail me with your mailing address and I'll get them out to you.
Please note that because of the various options available, I do NOT stock officer's trousers and each pair is manufactured ON ORDER and to your specifications.
Here are some photos showing both a sample of our STANDARD GRADE officer's trousers and a pair of MUSEUM GRADE officer's trousers. I'll add some additional photos soon.
Example is a pair of Infantry officer sky blue's in STANDARD grade. Various options are shown.
Example is a pair of Infantry officer DARK blue's in STANDARD grade. Various options are shown.
Example is a pair of infantry officer dark blue's in MUSEUM grade. Various options are shown.
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