Our 100% wool trousers are made in an excellent quality 21 ounce 100% wool loomed by Woolrich Woolen Mills. For those familiar with our 85/15 (%) blend Woolrich sky blue wool, this new 100% wool is a slightly lighter shade of sky blue. Samples for comparison are free and available simply upon request.

Our "museum grade" trousers are machine sewn on the main seams - INCLUDING the Schuylkill Arsenal pattern - but feature EXTENSIVE hand sewing and hand sewn details throughout the rest of the trousers. Here are some additional features found on our MUSEUM GRADE trousers.

2. The outer edges of the woolen waistbands and fly panels are rolled back (under)
    slightly as found in the majority of original examples examined

3. All cuffs feature the sideseam split or vent

4. Hand felled two-piece cuffs with wool facings PLUS cuff split reinforcement patches

5. NARROW pattern fly panels

6. Hand felled waistband and fly facings (Left side fly facings are brown polished cotton and the right
    side is cotton drill as per original examples.)

7. Hand felled reinforcement patch on the rear waistband split

8. Right side watchpocket with a hand felled facing. (The DEERING WATCH POCKET is in the
    trouser body/waistband seam and internally faced with wool. Corners are handtacked as per originals. The
    SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL WATCH POCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam also BUT has the external     watchpocket facing (like a mini-vest pocket). Side edges on the SA watchpocket facing are handfelled) .

9. Sideseam pattern pockets with hand bar-tacking at the corners

10. Hand felled internal pocket facings

11. Hand felled cotton drill pocket/body seams

12. Hand topstitched pocket bags

13. Hand sewn buttonholes in fly and waistband

14. Hand sewn rear tie-back grommet holes with tie-back cord (not thin string)

15. Tin face paperbacked buttons - seven large on the waistband; five small in the fly.
     PLEASE NOTE: It is evident based on the majority of surviving relic Federal trousers that the FOUR button
      system for suspender attachment was the most common - one per side on the front and one per side on
      the back. We utilize SIX buttons for suspender attachment on our trousers solely out of convenience for
      our customers, the majority of which have suspenders set up for a six point (6 button) attachment. If you       would prefer your trousers to have the FOUR button suspender set up, simply let us know and we will be
      happy to accomodate.

16. Natural 100% cotton drilling (NOT muslin!) is used for pocket inserts, waistband
     facings and the right side fly facing

17. Correct period William Deering or Schuylkill Arsenal stamps on the waistband facing
     and/or pocket. ATTENTION PLEASE: We use a WATER BASED black ink for ALL our stampings. Please
      note that these stamps WILL FADE to a light gray after a while once they get wet (from sweat, etc).
      Some original black ink stamps were most likely India ink while others to the best of our research and
      observation were not. So for a variety of reasons, and for the time being, we have elected to use the
      water based inks as opposed to the India and modern chemical (permanent laundry) inks.

18. Sewn entirely in medium dark blue 100% cotton thread

19. We wish to point out that all the handfelling on our trousers is done using the period      style "vertical felling stitch" ... not your basic whipstitching!

20. SPECIAL NOTE ON SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL TROUSERS: As an "additional cost" option (see
      our 100% WOOL ORDER FORM) we will apply HAND SEWN TOP STITCHING on the visible external areas
      such as the right side fly seam as well as pocket openings and around the bottom of the cuffs.

Here are some clickable links to images showing MAIN body views, INTERNAL views some various DETAILS on a pair of Schuylkill Arsenal pattern trousers. PLEASE NOTE: These trousers demonstrate the hand top stitch option referred to in #20 above.

6 Main    5 Inner    6 Details   

 

To insure the best fit the waist measurements on any trousers listed on this page or anywhere else on this website are considered "WAIST MEASUREMENT AT NAVEL LEVEL" (that high up). This is not necessarily the same waist size found on your blue jean size tags. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WAIST SIZE AT NAVEL LEVEL to insure the trousers you order fit satisfactorily. Three minutes taken to check this measurement may save you THREE WEEKS (PLUS EXPENSES) in returning and obtaining "replacement" (read that as "your REAL waist size") trousers. When it comes to ordering correctly cut Civil War trousers do not guess at your waist size and be careful about jean tag sizing. If this measurement stuff gets confusing, no sweat ... call me at 315-343-1557 or e-mail me and we can sort it all out in short order. :-)

ALSO, waist sizes given are with the rear waistband split closed. If the waistband split is opened (untied) there is usually a gain of at least one inch more to the waist size given.

 

We currently DO NOT STOCK 100% wool trousers as of this time. However, we look to create a shelf stock sometime in the near future. Any shelf stock that does become available will be posted on this page as we do with the 85/15 (%) wool blend trousers on Page 1. Meantime, here's a link to our order form for 100% wool trousers.

 

PRINTABLE ORDER FORM